LEJOG3 - Day 5: The Finishing Line

LEJOG3 - Day 4: Forsinard to Thurso and Castletown - The absolute North Coast

After the blazing sunshine of the last three days, a change was bound to come. The fine weather couldn't last. 

However, I feel very lucky with the weather I've had. Sunny, but not too hot. I have a full set of waterproofs that I've not yet had to use.

Very unusual for Scotland.

Today is overcast and drizzly, with the inevitable morning Scotch Mist. After an excellent overnight stay at Forsinard Lodge - with their lovely, attentive staff, I headed out for the long, bleak road to Thurso, and then tonight, Castletown, where I stay. It's a three-layer day with a cold north wind. 

I am currently not feeling very well. A bit nauseous. I've drunk lots and taken electrolytes, so let's see what happens. Getting properly ill one day from John O'Groats would be very bad luck.

I have been surprised at the sheer daily effort this cycle ride is taking: the terrain, the constant north wind and keeping out of the way of the mad traffic. Even on very quiet highland roads, motorists scream around corners and zoom past quite close. You can never really relax. Also, I have to regularly get out of the way of cars on these single-track, narrow roads. Mostly, drivers are grateful and raise their hand to me.

Thankfully, I haven't had to ride long stretches of A roads today. But there have been some significant hills.

Despite challenges, I am getting there. These kinds of cycle trip reveal who you are - your strengths and weaknesses - physically and mentally. Also, you just have to take each day as it comes when you are cycling point-to-point.

I arrived at Thurso at lunchtime. It's the largest town on the Caithness Peninsula, but I found it bleak, cold and grey and pretty run-down. Also, surprisingly deserted for a Saturday.  However, it was nice to enter Caithness's version of Greggs bakery, and to be served cheese bakes and coffee by cheery young Highland women. 

I also finally got to dip my bike wheel in the North coast shoreline. I did this old End-to-End rider's tradition at Land's End also. That was in July 2021, when I first started my LEJOG.

That feels like a long time ago now, and a lot of water has flowed under the bridge of my life since then.

Back in July 2021, I was excited and inspired to do the LEJOG ride and raise money for the Bhopal/Kolkata Project and Arthritis Action.

I could not have known back then just how tough a bike ride the LEJOG is and just how many setbacks and disasters I'd be facing - not just the LEJOG ride, but the USA rides as well. 

On the positive side, the fundraising aspect has been brilliant with around £84,000 raised. Folk have been so generous. I've received big, big donations from people I hardly know. But they've been affected by my efforts. I learned many new things about myself. On LEJOG2, I had the marvelous company of Prajnakara. On the recent USA rides the marvelous company of Abhayanaga and Shuddhabha. It was worth doing the rides just for that.

I've met so many wonderful, generous strangers on these LEJOG rides.

Back in 2000, I was in a wheelchair for a short time and then on crutches for a longer time. With rheumatoid arthritis setting in, I thought my physical life was bleak. But with the right medication and self-management, my physical life has become really quite good. I'm extremely grateful for that.

As I'm inwardly moaning about having to toil up another Scottish hill, I remind myself that it's amazing I'm able to do it at all!

I'm now at Castletown, which is also bleak and a bit run-down like Thurso, but smaller.

However, it has a fascinating old heritage harbour, which was the world's largest producer of flag stones in Victorian times. I visited the Heritage Centre before checking into my hotel. My imagination was easily able to see the lives of the 500-odd quarry workers toiling away 150 years ago.

The Castletown Hotel is quite nice, with friendly, helpful staff. I had a nice macaroni cheese for dinner this evening - the only veggie item on the menu. As a vegetarian, I realise I'm spoiled for choice in Cambridge.

Tomorrow is the final riding day. Around 32 miles. It's 15 challenging miles to John O'Groats. Get my photo taken there. Then it's another 17 miles south down the West coast to my B&B in Wick.

I'll be setting out from the hotel at 07.30, to get ahead of the game and arrive at JOG for around lunchtime.

Wish me luck! This is a big day for me....

Oh yes, the nausea went by lunch time, thankfully.

LEJOG3 - Day 3: Lairg to Forsinard - Scotch Mist

This morning was very misty. 

After a good sleep, I was on the road for 08.00. I had my lights on and cars were appearing out of the mist, and then disappearing again.

It was going to be a long slog to Forsinard - 61 miles. 

I knew this when I was booking the B&Bs. 61 miles in a day is too far for me even in ideal conditions with a full-sized bike, but in hilly, windy Scotland with a Brompton - it's an impossibility.

I had been unable to find a B&B at a more reasonable distance for tonight. So.... in order to resolve this problem, this morning, I cycled to Lairg station and took a sideways local train from Lairg to Kildonan - in an Easterly direction.  

This made my ride to the Forsinard Lodge B&B only 25 miles - via a roundabout route. Much more manageable. I enjoyed the train ride, too.

Technically, I suppose that's 'cheating'.

However, as I gained no actual progress north towards John O'Groats, I don't think it matters. I have cycled just as far as I would have - just a more convenient route, accomodation wise.

Until mid-morning, it was hard to see anything much - just dense mist with the occasional patchy bits of vision. I could just about see the shoreline at Helmsdale, but not out to sea. The infamous 'Scotch Mist'. 

Eventually it cleared to reveal yet another very beautiful day in the North Highlands. 

There's a bleak beauty to the place. It's unlike anywhere I've seen. Sparse, dramatic, quiet and unchanging.

I'm expecting to get to John O'Groats by Sunday lunch time. Then it's another 14 miles to Wick.

That's where I'm staying Sunday night. The landlord sent me an email to say 'No Stag parties were allowed at the accomodation'. Hardly an issue for me!

Then I catch the 08.00 Wick train to Inverness on Monday morning - mission completed - hopefully.

Tonight, I'm staying at Forsinard Lodge, a lone Tea Room and B&B in the middle of moorland and mountain streams. There is an RSPB centre nearby. Tomorrow, it's on to Castletown near Thurso. This is the very northerly coast - the top of Britain.

I am getting close to my goal - and the end of a personal era.

I am now installed at the excellent Forsinard Lodge, in a tasteful room. My evening meal is ordered and friendly staff have said they will knock on my door when it is ready. You don't get that in a Travel Lodge. Not that I'm knocking Travel Lodges, as you know what you are getting. But.....  they are rather corporate and impersonal. For a man who has recently stayed in yurts in North America, I rather prefer the unusual and one-off.

Forsinard Lodge: An oasis amid the surrounding wilderness

LEJOG3 - Day 2: Alness to Aultnagar Lodge, Lairg - Into the mystic mist

Last night's stay at Alness was cheap but comfortable. After a long day's  cycling, it's great to have a shower waiting for you. There was a great breakfast, too.

On the road for 08.30 and from the start it was tough going. Possibly the longest continuous uphill climb I've ever done. About two and three-quarters hours of mountain roads - always going up. It seemed endless but kept going with regular rests. A deep mist descended from early morning and that reduced vision. Just me, the mist and an occasional mountain peak or forest visible. Very atmospheric.

There was nothing to do but keep going.

Eventually, around 11.30, I reached the top. The mist cleared revealing another beautiful sunny day. Then began the long descent. It was long, steep and pretty exhilarating. 

I reached the bottom of the glen and the pretty town of Ardgay. There was a cafe and a chance to sit in the sun and look across to Dornoch Firth and eat an egg roll.

A group of touring cyclists turned up and chatted. They were amazed I was doing my final leg of the LEJOG on a Brompton.

I arrived at Bonar Bridge and met some young female JOGLERs (John O'Groats to Land's End - the other way). There seems to be a real camaraderie among cyclists doing this particular route. 

Like me, so many are raising money for charity.

Arrived at Aultnagar Lodge which is a beautiful old house turned into tourist accomodation. Friendly hosts. Beautiful house, beautiful views, and very quiet. This place was built for the entrepreneur Andrew Carnegie.

Big push north tomorrow towards Forsinard. Starting to get closer to John O'Groats.

Aultnagar Lodge

LEJOG3 - Day 1: Inverness to Alness - The Big First Ride.

Cycled from Inverness to the Highland town of Alness by mid-afternoon. So far, so good. Tomorrow, it's on to Lairgs. The Brompton folding bike is so easy at B&Bs (unlike a standard bike, which often throws the landlord/landlady, even if I've notified them in advance). When folded up, it's just like a piece of luggage.

The weather is beautiful just now. I hope it lasts.

Some amazing views from the enormous Inverness bridge and later, the Moray Firth and Cromarty Firth coastlines.

I had a good stay in Inverness yesterday after the long train ride up from Cambridge. All the connections went well and there was no disruption.

Inverness is a nice city, and I had a good look round. Lots of international tourists about.

I was staying in a cheap B&B in the unfashionable part of town. Actually, it was quite good. Quiet and pleasant, the host was friendly and good a breakfast this morning. I was on the road for 9am.

The route was a mix of very beautiful and easy cycling and some more challenging stuff. Quiet a few tough hills. I had to get off and push up a few. Also, there was about 5 miles of cycling on a roaring dual-carriageway, as there was no alternative route. At least there was a cyclepath. Safe, but very noisy and unpleasant. But not as bad as a brief experience of this sort in America. That was overwhelming.

Staying in Aultnagar Lodge near Lairg tomorrow. The name sounds very Indian. The middle of nowhere, it can feel - being this far North. Let's see how tomorrow goes.

Wheeling my bike towards the hotel this afternoon, I got chatting to two men, who turned out to be reporters for a local newspaper, the Alness Times. They asked me about my trip and I told them my story. They took my photo with the bike, saying that a piece on me will appear in the next issue! They were nice guys who also donated £15 to my charity. They were very impressed that a 65-year old like me would do a LEJOG - especially solo with no back-up. To their further amazement, I told them the age record had recently been broken. In 2023 a man aged 90 years and 33 days cycled from Lands End to John O'Groats. The record for a woman is close at 82 years and 38 days, completed in 2022. They did both have good back-up. It must help a lot when someone is carrying your gear in a car and is there to encourage you and provide whatever. Even so, these are amazing achievements.

Lands End to John O'Groats (LEJOG): Final Leg - Inverness to John O'Groats

I am on a train to Inverness, in the Scottish Highlands. My feet barely touched the deck in Cambridge before I was off again for a final Big Ride. Finishing off my three-ride odyssey from Land's End to John O'Groats. Three rides over four years. Just 150 miles and then it's the end of an era.

This time I have my Brompton folding bike - much easier on the trains.

As I've said recently, this is definitely the last of my Big Rides - for fundraising or for pleasure. Just weekend rides from now on. 

The reason is my Rheumatoid Arthritis. It does require more management now as I age. Though cycling and exercise help my condition, the reality is that hills and headwinds are getting harder on my arthritic knees. Big rides are tough. You have to be fit and functional as well as good with logistics.

Arriving back in Cambridge from New York was nice. Unfortunately, there was a train strike, and my Cambridge train was standing room only. So packed that it was like a local train in Kolkata (Calcutta), but without folk riding on the roof! (this literally happens).

I'm still absorbing the American rides and general experience there. I think it has changed me somehow.

Though USA has high standards of living, it appears that most people don't have that. They work many jobs and live in trailer parks and the essentials of life are precarious.

Though I'm a UK pensioner with a modest income, I live a quality life of friends, family and spiritual community. I'm surrounded by art and creativity in Cambridge. I feel fortunate and grateful 

I've seen extensive, appalling poverty in India, of course. But because India is such a rich, family and caste-based culture, there is a support network. Perhaps it is in America, too, I didn't stay long enough to judge.

I will never forget my wonderful hosts in USA, together with the awesome landscape and fascinating animal life.

Tomorrow, I cycle north to a B&B in Alness. Currently it is raining, which I don't mind.

Back in Blighty & end of blog - until 14th May

Here I am in Kings Cross waiting for a train to Cambridge. Much as I enjoyed USA, it's good to be back in Britain. I love it here. It is my home. Perhaps the only other place I love like Britain is India. I could definitely live in India, but well..... I have happy commitments here in Britain.

The overnight flight from New York to London went well. On time and reasonably comfortable.

How to reflect on USA? There was so much that was deeply positive: my friends and their company, the very beautiful landscape, the cycling itself, general American culture and it's many good sides. Finally, there is the experience of being well outside my comfort zone, and surviving that. Going beyond my comfort zone makes me strong and flexible. I need to have an adventure from time to time.

The down sides: there weren't many. America is expensive. Everything costs much more there. Obviously I got some annoying health issues to work with. Finally, the fact that my arthritis really means I can't hike on rough or hilly ground now. It can cause a complete seizure of my knees. It nearly did hiking up to Avalanche Lake in Glacier, but I got away with it this time - just.

Please remember to tune in to this blog next week - Tuesday May 24th, for the final Big Ride. Inverness to John O Groats solo. The final leg of my LEJOG (Lands End to John O Groats). Over and out. Thanks for following me!

New York morning & Flight home to London

My last day in New York. I had a deep and long sleep in the hotel and a walk in a public park in the Queens area. It was comfortable in the hotel and the staff were helpful and nice. That made up for it being located in an unattractive area.

The shuttle to the airport was efficient and friendly. I could see the iconic Manhatten skyline in the distance.

So now I'm through security and chilling out in the restaurant area with New York Bagels, Philadelphia and coffee. It feels appropriate. 

Whats App is a wonderful thing. I regularly exchange photos with my granddaughters. The oldest wants to know where in America Granddad is.

A couple of weeks ago, I had my 65th birthday, so here is the picture from that. AB & SB made a big fuss of me with special food and presents. It was great to have this significant birthday in USA. What did I do on my birthday? I went for a long bike ride, of course!

So let's hope the last leg to London goes smoothly.

Big Ride - The End : Flight to New York

This morning at 05.40, I flew from Missoula to Salt Lake City. AB kindly took me out to the airport at 4am. What wonderful hosts they have been to me in the last month.

It was a two and a half hour stopover in SLC and then another flight to New York JFK airport. I found the 4 hour flight on a cramped aircraft rather demanding. I was glad to get off. 

I found JFK airport overwhelming.

As my London flight was cancelled by Virgin and moved to tomorrow, I've had to book an overnight hotel in New York. But actually, it does break up the long journey and I can have a good lie-in tomorrow before getting the shuttle bus up to JFK airport. 

In my niaevity, I thought I could leave JFK airport and walk to the hotel which is only two miles away. I found it was impossible to walk - there were no facilities for it. So I had to get a yellow cab.

The hotel is good, but the area is rough and unsightly. But nothing compared to what I've seen in India.

This is my first time in New York - such as it is.

My overnight flight to Heathrow leaves at 18.30 tomorrow Tuesday 7th. It will be nice to have a bit of space after a month of so much travel, so much cycling and hiking, so much packing and unpacking.

All being well, I should arrive at London Heathrow at 06.45 on Wednesday 8th, and then get the train back to Cambridge.

This has been an incredible month in the USA. The trip of a lifetime.

Just to remind you. I finish off my cycle travels in Scotland next week. On Tuesday 14th May, I travel by train to Inverness. From there, I finish my 3-part Lands End to John O Groats cycle ride. It's 155 miles from Inverness to John O Groats. It will take me a four or five days as I am cycling it on my Brompton folding bike (very easy to take on the train, but slow). Then that's it, I've cycled the whole length of the United Kingdom which, with detours amounts to 1100 miles. I have raised around £83,000 for Triratna development project in Kolkata and Bhopal and also for the Arthritis Action charity.

In 2021, I cycled from Lands End to Shrewsbury. In 2022, I cycled from Shrewsbury to near Inverness. Now this is the final leg, after so much cycling here in the USA, I am in the groove. So pleased keep checking out my blog.

Finally, I wanted to say that the John O Groats ride next week is my last big bike ride. It really is. I don't want to do any more big rides.

I am 65 now and my rheumatoid arthritis makes these long rides hard to do for much of the time.

I love cycling, and will continue to ride bikes every day. It is good for me on many levels. However, day rides and weekend rides will be my limit now.

I can hear my son Barney saying "Yeah, Dad, we've heard that before...." But honestly, USA and Scotland are the last of the big rides.

In the New York hotel

Return to Missoula

It was a pleasure waking up in the chalet this morning, and having breakfast. The weather was wet and overcast, which makes yesterday's weather even more fortuitous. 

We loaded our bikes and gear on the car and headed back through Whitefish town and onto the North Montana freeway towards Missoula. Great mountain ranges were there in front of us. 

AB and I both feel a great sense of achievement with the last month and this epic bike ride. Utah, Idaho and Montana - we've seen some amazing country and ridden through incredible places.

There have been challenges in the last month, but we've achieved what we set out to achieve.

Tomorrow, I get the 05.40 flight out of Missoula, then later that morning fly on to New York. Thankfully, I have to stay overnight in New York and not Salt Lake City, I was informed by the airline this morning.

I'm hoping for a smooth and hassle-free flight, and will probably get to see a little of New York.

Big Ride Day 14: The Ultimate Cycle Ride

Today is hard to describe. It was so wonderful. We woke early in our chalet and got onto the road for 8am. Reached Glacier National Park for 8.45 and were cycling by 9.15. the landsape was stunning. The most beautiful landscape I've ever seen. We cycled a road through that was closed to traffic. We had it all to ourselves. After several miles we parked the bikes and hiked 3 miles up to Avalanche Lake, a glacial lake in the mountains. Very beautiful and quiet. We had lunch there. 

Unfortunately the hike was too much for my right arthritic knee, and I was in pain from a knee twist. By this time the beautiful weather was getting warm. 

Hobbled down through the forest to the bikes in the afternoon. I only managed a few more miles on the bike through the park. Cycling up the mountain hills became to much for my knee so we headed back to Macdonald Lodge, where we were parked up. Got back for 3pm to the car. 

I have now soaked my knee in the bath and taken painkillers. Knowing my knee, It'll be alright once it gets a rest. If I had carried on, though, I'd have risked a sieze-up. 

I find I can cycle as long as I like and my knees are OK. But doing uphill hikes are another matter. I really can't do that anymore. In this case, I was making an exception, because Avalanche Lake was so beautiful. But... I paid the price.

Incredibly on the ride back we encountered a grizzly bear on the road!

The weather god were smiling on us today - the last ride of this amazing American cycle journey. It has been a total success, despite some health challenges and logistical hassle.

It has clouded over now and rain is forecast.

Tomorrow (Sunday) we head back to Missoula. Monday morning, I get my flight back to Salt Lake City. All being well, I'll reach London Heathrow for 06.45 on Wednesday May 8th.

Right now, we are heading into Whitefish town for a pizza.