Sunday, May 19, 2024

LEJOG3 - Day 5: The Finishing Line

 Today has been a long day. I am sitting in a chip shop in Wick, waiting for a veggie burger and chips. I am very hungry. I've expended a lot of energy today.
I have booked into my B&B and had a shower. The events of the day are sinking in.
Tomorrow, I catch the 8am train to Inverness and eventually down to Cambridge. 
I feel satisfied and happy with how it has all gone. But I would say it has been physically tougher than I thought. There's probably all sorts of factors in that.
This morning started with breakfast at 06.50 in the Castletown Hotel - quite a comfortable place with attentive staff.
I was paid up and on the road for 07.30. As ever, the wind was against me. It was 14 miles to John O'Groats - with quite a few hills, a bit of a slog. 
I could see nothing, there was a thick blanket of wet mist which turned to cold drizzle.
I cycled mile after mile with absolutely no traffic which was great. Just me and the lonely countryside. Not even many houses. Very few trees. 
By 10.15 John O'Groats was in sight. It was a surprisingly steep road down to the harbour and the famous signpost. I was really here! I'd anticipated this experience for years.
It was a big moment, actually. After several hours of solitary cycling, I was very much in my own space. But once I got to the signpost, it was like I'd joined a fairground. All sorts of weird and wonderful folk were there and hundreds more were turning up in camper vans, cars, motorbikes, hikers and of course, cyclists. 
John O'Groats is a magnet.
I had good chats with all sorts of people. An elderly Australian couple took my photo and gave me £10 towards my fundraising. I was approached by another cyclist who was very friendly. He was another Australian. A doctor researching into pain management. He was waiting for a ferry to Orkney. He bought me coffee and cake and asked me many questions about how I managed my arthritis pain.
John O'Groats was full of cafes, eateries, and tourist trinkets. Lots and lots of folk milling around and taking photos. 
After about an hour of chatting intensively with strangers, I realised it was all a bit much, so I slipped away and left them to it.
I headed out in the drizzling rain on the 17 mile road to the town of Wick, where I'm staying tonight.
After the intensity of JOG, I was now back on my own, battling the elements on a slow, folding bike. The traffic was very busy now. 
I took the coastal route - hoping to see the coast, but I couldn't. It wasnt until approaching Wick in the late afternoon that the sky begin to clear, and I could see the landscape.
It was a much harder ride with many long, winding hills. During this ride I realised something had changed since John O'Groats: I'd simply had enough. I was ready to pack up and go home. I'd done what I came here to do.
I got into Wick feeling pretty weary and depleted. I checked into the B&B (which is a guest room at the back of a pub, but perfectly adequate) and showered. Then I got some food and had a riverside walk and I revived.
I will catch up on Match of Day tonight and turn in early.
The Brompton has not let me down, though I would not attempt a long ride on it again. Though it has been great on the train, I think it is really a handy town bike.
Tomorrow, I begin the long trek home. I shall add some more reflections on these rides, and then conclude the blog.

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