However, I feel very lucky with the weather I've had. Sunny, but not too hot. I have a full set of waterproofs that I've not yet had to use.
Very unusual for Scotland.
Today is overcast and drizzly, with the inevitable morning Scotch Mist. After an excellent overnight stay at Forsinard Lodge - with their lovely, attentive staff, I headed out for the long, bleak road to Thurso, and then tonight, Castletown, where I stay. It's a three-layer day with a cold north wind.
I am currently not feeling very well. A bit nauseous. I've drunk lots and taken electrolytes, so let's see what happens. Getting properly ill one day from John O'Groats would be very bad luck.
I have been surprised at the sheer daily effort this cycle ride is taking: the terrain, the constant north wind and keeping out of the way of the mad traffic. Even on very quiet highland roads, motorists scream around corners and zoom past quite close. You can never really relax. Also, I have to regularly get out of the way of cars on these single-track, narrow roads. Mostly, drivers are grateful and raise their hand to me.
Thankfully, I haven't had to ride long stretches of A roads today. But there have been some significant hills.
Despite challenges, I am getting there. These kinds of cycle trip reveal who you are - your strengths and weaknesses - physically and mentally. Also, you just have to take each day as it comes when you are cycling point-to-point.
I arrived at Thurso at lunchtime. It's the largest town on the Caithness Peninsula, but I found it bleak, cold and grey and pretty run-down. Also, surprisingly deserted for a Saturday. However, it was nice to enter Caithness's version of Greggs bakery, and to be served cheese bakes and coffee by cheery young Highland women.
I also finally got to dip my bike wheel in the North coast shoreline. I did this old End-to-End rider's tradition at Land's End also. That was in July 2021, when I first started my LEJOG.
That feels like a long time ago now, and a lot of water has flowed under the bridge of my life since then.
Back in July 2021, I was excited and inspired to do the LEJOG ride and raise money for the Bhopal/Kolkata Project and Arthritis Action.
I could not have known back then just how tough a bike ride the LEJOG is and just how many setbacks and disasters I'd be facing - not just the LEJOG ride, but the USA rides as well.
On the positive side, the fundraising aspect has been brilliant with around £84,000 raised. Folk have been so generous. I've received big, big donations from people I hardly know. But they've been affected by my efforts. I learned many new things about myself. On LEJOG2, I had the marvelous company of Prajnakara. On the recent USA rides the marvelous company of Abhayanaga and Shuddhabha. It was worth doing the rides just for that.
I've met so many wonderful, generous strangers on these LEJOG rides.
Back in 2000, I was in a wheelchair for a short time and then on crutches for a longer time. With rheumatoid arthritis setting in, I thought my physical life was bleak. But with the right medication and self-management, my physical life has become really quite good. I'm extremely grateful for that.
As I'm inwardly moaning about having to toil up another Scottish hill, I remind myself that it's amazing I'm able to do it at all!
I'm now at Castletown, which is also bleak and a bit run-down like Thurso, but smaller.
However, it has a fascinating old heritage harbour, which was the world's largest producer of flag stones in Victorian times. I visited the Heritage Centre before checking into my hotel. My imagination was easily able to see the lives of the 500-odd quarry workers toiling away 150 years ago.
The Castletown Hotel is quite nice, with friendly, helpful staff. I had a nice macaroni cheese for dinner this evening - the only veggie item on the menu. As a vegetarian, I realise I'm spoiled for choice in Cambridge.
Tomorrow is the final riding day. Around 32 miles. It's 15 challenging miles to John O'Groats. Get my photo taken there. Then it's another 17 miles south down the West coast to my B&B in Wick.
I'll be setting out from the hotel at 07.30, to get ahead of the game and arrive at JOG for around lunchtime.
Wish me luck! This is a big day for me....
Oh yes, the nausea went by lunch time, thankfully.
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