Friday, May 17, 2024

LEJOG3 - Day 3: Lairg to Forsinard - Scotch Mist




This morning was very misty. 
After a good sleep, I was on the road for 08.00. I had my lights on and cars were appearing out of the mist, and then disappearing again.
It was going to be a long slog to Forsinard - 61 miles. 
I knew this when I was booking the B&Bs. 61 miles in a day is too far for me even in ideal conditions with a full-sized bike, but in hilly, windy Scotland with a Brompton - it's an impossibility.
I had been unable to find a B&B at a more reasonable distance for tonight. So.... in order to resolve this problem, this morning, I cycled to Lairg station and took a sideways local train from Lairg to Kildonan - in an Easterly direction.  
This made my ride to the Forsinard Lodge B&B only 25 miles - via a roundabout route. Much more manageable. I enjoyed the train ride, too.
Technically, I suppose that's 'cheating'.
However, as I gained no actual progress north towards John O'Groats, I don't think it matters. I have cycled just as far as I would have - just a more convenient route, accomodation wise.
Until mid-morning, it was hard to see anything much - just dense mist with the occasional patchy bits of vision. I could just about see the shoreline at Helmsdale, but not out to sea. The infamous 'Scotch Mist'. 
Eventually it cleared to reveal yet another very beautiful day in the North Highlands. 
There's a bleak beauty to the place. It's unlike anywhere I've seen. Sparse, dramatic, quiet and unchanging.
I'm expecting to get to John O'Groats by Sunday lunch time. Then it's another 14 miles to Wick.
That's where I'm staying Sunday night. The landlord sent me an email to say 'No Stag parties were allowed at the accomodation'. Hardly an issue for me!
Then I catch the 08.00 Wick train to Inverness on Monday morning - mission completed - hopefully.
Tonight, I'm staying at Forsinard Lodge, a lone Tea Room and B&B in the middle of moorland and mountain streams. There is an RSPB centre nearby. Tomorrow, it's on to Castletown near Thurso. This is the very northerly coast - the top of Britain.
I am getting close to my goal - and the end of a personal era.
I am now installed at the excellent Forsinard Lodge, in a tasteful room. My evening meal is ordered and friendly staff have said they will knock on my door when it is ready. You don't get that in a Travel Lodge. Not that I'm knocking Travel Lodges, as you know what you are getting. But.....  they are rather corporate and impersonal. For a man who has recently stayed in yurts in North America, I rather prefer the unusual and one-off.
Forsinard Lodge: An oasis amid the surrounding wilderness

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Day 22: Train to Gaya

We are due to leave for the station at 08.30 tomorrow. Our train is at 09.30. Hopefully, the train will get us to Bodhgaya before nightfall.