Day 9: Pitfalls in Pitlochry

Today started well with the usual meditation at 7am and then a hearty breakfast at the Perth hotel. A standard pitfall we experience is getting a little lost on the way out of wherever we are leaving. It happened again this morning and Google maps was abandoned and we simply used our intuition to get onto the Pitlochry road.

Though our ride was only 27 miles, we decided to take a longer, better route with less traffic (the traffic on the A9 looked ridiculous). Our route was 30 miles.

There were some beautiful scenery with mountains, forests and glens to take in en route.

I had a revelation today with hill-climbing. I raised my seat by three quarters of an inch and everything felt different. I found I had more power and climbed hills more easily (though they are still hard). I cycled up most of them today, and there were plenty of them as usual. My seat had been too low. What a fool I have been!

We got into Pitlochry around 3pm and checked into Mackay's Hotel. Pitlochry was heaving with tourists thronging the streets. Hotel reception suggested we take our bikes to our rooms. Then we found our room was on the top floor! After a lot of manouvering worthy of a Laurel and Hardy film, we got the bikes up to our room. We then found our electronic key didn't open our door. Prajnakara then went down to get Reception to deal with it, and got locked in the lobby and had to escape through the fire escape! What a farce! Eventually we got sorted and settled.

We spotted a bike shop and went down there. I have old fashioned 'rat trap' type pedals on my bike and we both felt an upgrade to more modern 'clipped in' SPD pedals would further assist my hill climbing. I laid out good money for special pedals and new cycling shoes with the clips on the soles. 

Except that Prajnakara and I were unable get my old pedals off with the tools we had in our maintenance tool kit. We need a special tool. So tomorrow, it's back down the bike shop to see if they can put the new pedals on immediately. I hope so because we have 42 miles to ride to Newtonmore. 

I reflected on the hierarchy of logistics and purpose here: 1) I need to get to the Pitlochry bike shop when they open to get an early job slot. 2) I need the pedals changing to pedal more efficiently the 42 miles to Newtonmore. 3) This a stage of my second Big Bike Ride from Land's End to John O'Groats. 4) I'm doing this ride to fundraise to develop a Buddhist centre in Kolkata. 5) I want to develop a Buddhist centre in Kolkata because there is interest, and I imagine many beings will benefit.

Quite amazing hierarchy, really.

We saw a wild pyramid orchid today (see picture).

Day 8: The Full Scottish

It would not be really true to say I am cycling from Land's End to John O'Groats. Propelling a bicycle would be more true. This is because I seem to be spending a lot of time pushing my bike up steep hills. There were 28 of these today on our 48.5 mile ride from Livingston to Perth. I do cycle when I can though!

The stay over at Livingston was good. After a decent breakfast we set off through a forested park and got a bit lost. Eventually we got onto the Perth road and there were some spectacular views.

Lots of cycling through mountains and moorlands with not a person in sight. Amazingly, it was a completely still day, almost no wind. We arrived at the Forth Bridge near Edinburgh, and found there were in fact three bridges! Fantastic views across.

Later, the dark foreboding clouds built up and the heavens opened. It became very cold indeed and windy as we were pelted by a prolonged cloudburst of hailstones and then torrential rain 

that had water gushing down the roads. We ploughed on with waterproofs on but at times we could hardly see for the rain.

Later, the sun came out and that warmed us up and dried things out a bit. We struggled to find The Holiday Inn near Perth, and once again found ourselves in a rough housing estate, which we were keen to get out of. 

Now showered, warm and dry here in our digs, things feel good. We experienced The Full Scottish weather experience today and have survived it.

Pitlochry tomorrow. All I know about Pitlochry is my late mother's 'Pitlochry Wool' catalogue - which she cherished. "They make the best jumpers", she once told me.

Day 7: The North Wind doth blow.....

Another demanding day today - 53 miles! But it was a good day in many ways. Sitting here in a Holiday Inn-type hotel in Livingston, near Edinburgh, I feel surprisingly fine, despite the rigours of the day.

We had a very good stay at Moffat with a friendly landlady. The town is so nice and very popular that we couldn't get an evening meal anywhere - having not booked. We ended up having veggie burgers, chips and salad in a basic cafe and it was nice food and staff were friendly.

I must admit to not looking forward to today, as I knew it would be gruelling, and it was. The North wind blew against us every inch of the way. Most of the countryside was mountains and glens, with little sign of civilisation. Rather beautiful. However, Prajnakara thinks we did well over 20 miles of pure hill-climbing today. It certainly felt like it.

The hills just went on and on. The good news is that we did it, and it wasn't that bad. Or I should say that I did it, because there was never any doubt that Prajnakara would complete the ride on time. It is me who is the weak link in this cycling team, but as Prajnakara says, I am improving. Perhaps I really am getting fitter.....

As we passed into the outskirts of Livingston, it seemed quite posh. Then we found ourselves in just about the roughest housing scheme I have ever seen. It was really deprived and we didn't feel safe cycling through it. Thankfully, our large chain hotel is really quite nice and luxury of luxuries, I even had a bath! Just about the most welcome bath ever. Before I did that, Prajnakara photographed the extraordinary 'helmet hair' that I sport at the end of the day.

Perth tomorrow, 49 miles. Perhaps we'll be lucky and the wind will change.

Day 6: Into the Mystic

'Together we will go....into the Mystic'. Van Morrison: Moondance

After a decent stay over at Carlisle, today we wended our way out of the city, and headed for the countryside and the border. We were heading for the mystical Caledonia - or Scotland, as it is generally known.

Unfortunately, once again we had a head wind, and this was to make our progress that much harder. Another 47 miles today to the Scottish town of Moffat, where we were met by a welcoming landlady who installed us in a comfy room and stored our bikes.

Once we made it to Gretna Green we took photos and stocked up on provisions. Prajnakara was in good shape and spirits, whereas I found the day much more of a slog into the never-ending hills and headwind. My rheumatoid arthritis was playing up in my knees and heels, wrists and hands. At times, it blinded me to the natural beauty all around me. The lush lowland Scottish countryside was looking lovely and purple rhododendrons were everywhere. Prajnakara kindly took some heavy stuff from my bike, to carry on his own bike - so as to make life easier for me.

We found time to stop at Ecclefechan, home of Thomas Carlyle and later, when we passed through Lockerbie, we stopped at the memorial to the 1988 air disaster and did a short meditation. The memory of that terrible event was sobering.

We ploughed on - on a seemingly never-ending almost unused streight road which eventually, eventually led us to the town of Moffat. 

Today was arduous, I'm afraid - at least for me, and we shall need a good sleep tonight, as tomorrow we are riding a record 54 miles to Livingston, near Edinburgh. There will be plenty of hills, and I expect Northerly headwinds, but I am determined to get there. It is on days like this that I positively bear in mind that I am 63 and have rheumatoid arthritis, so I'm not doing badly, really!

Day 5: Through the curtain of Rock and Water

Today was The Big One - the long hard climb out of the Grasmere valley. We then descended into Thirlmere and passed through many short, steep climbs through the countryside to the Border city of Carlisle - which is where we now are.

Today's scenery was awesome, in the true sense of the term. Steep, majestic mountains, beautiful clear lakes and blazing flowers in the hedgerows.

Unfortunately we had to take a two mile detour around Thirlmere due to a blocked road. I also got slightly dehydrated, but soon put that right with PK's help.

At times, the wind was ferocious, and came at us mainly from the side. The steep climb up Dunmail Raise was a killer, but not as tough as last year's hills in Cornwall (see July 2021 on this blog). Getting towards Carlisle, we met two other touring cyclists. One kindly gave us £20 towards the Kolkata charity! They were looking for digs in Carlisle. I suggested Warwick Road area (which is where our B&B is). When we arrived, there they were - checking into our B&B!

It's a big, posh B&B and Prajnakara and I are glad to be installed here after a tough 47 miles, that were also awe-inspiring at times.

Scotland beckons tomorrow.

Day 4: I wandered lonely as a cloud...

Here we are at Rydal Hall guest house near Ambleside in the heart of the Lake District. It's really quite posh, and a stunning setting. Just across from our guest room is Rydal Mount, the one-time home of William Wordsworth, of Lakeland Poets fame. Tomorrow we have a gruelling day ahead of us, as we are taking the 41 mile Ulswater route to Carlisle. There will be some long and very steep hills to deal with, but lots of beauty and awesome mountains and lakes.

Today we set off from Morecambe sea front in lashing rain and wind, after a good stay overnight. We followed the old Lancaster canal route to Carnforth (where Brief Encounter was filmed - look it up on Wikipedia).

We then began some serious hard riding up through Beetham and Milnthorpe and onto Kendal. Of course it was raining in Kendal (one of the wettest places in Britain). Having refreshed ourselves there (Gregg's vegan sausage rolls & latte and juice & bananas for PK), we faced many hard hills to climb and fast riding down them. Prajnakara thinks I will get much fitter doing this ride. I hope so. But I am sleeping like log each night and actually asleep by 10.45. Some kind of record for me.

Kendal to Windermere was an arduous slog against a headwind. I was on the edge of what I can do, and really fatigued. PK, however, was sailing up the hills on his little Brompton bike. But then, he is an Audax rider. He always waits for me with great patience.

The long descent through Windermere, Bowness and finally Ambleside were nice, especially as we skirted the beautiful Windermere lakeside. Once through Ambleside, we found our way to Rydal Hall, where there was proper confusion regarding our bike storage (I had pre-arranged it but the manager knew nothing) but eventually a solution was found and the bikes were stored in a locked toilet.

Today was a hard 40.5 miles, but it was good in lots of ways. Now it is time to find a decent restaurant!

Day 3: Bring me sunshine....in your smile...

Here we are in Morecambe and have settled into the B&B. This evening, Prajnakara and I will go and get a photo next to Eric Morecambe's statue - the town's most famous son. Except his name was really John Bartholomew, but 'Bartholomew and Wise' didn't sound good enough for showbiz.

We cycled nearly 50 miles today - a record for me. Prajnakara is an ideal man to do this trip with, as he's such an experienced cyclist and great company to boot.

We cycled at least 10 miles on an old canal towpath from Wigan to Preston. It was very beautiful but a bit slow on the gravelly surface. After that we cycled 21 miles on the cycle lane of a main A road to Lancaster. We were sheltered from a strong sidewind by trees and hedges and made fast progress. The last bit from Lancaster to Morecambe was a real slog as we were heading into a serious headwind that could stop you dead in you tracks when the gusts were strong. But we got there, and plenty of sandwiches, bananas, cake and Twix bars were consumed to keep the energy flowing. On a trip like this, you probably need to consume 5000 calories a day.

There is so much beauty in the countryside to take in, and sometimes we just stop and look at it. But there's no getting away from it, Land's End to John O'Groats is a real physical endurance test. It's serious exercise all day long. On the health front, so far so good for both of us. Tomorrow, we hit the Lake District and Rydal Water, which is associated with William Wordsworth.



DAY 2: The Road to Wigan Pier

There is no pier in Wigan. After all, it is nowhere near the sea. So the 

'pier' is mythical and refers to an historical barge coal offloading area in the Industrial Revolution. This is what wikipedia says! George Orwell immortalised it in his book The Road to Wigan Pier.

After a reasonable stay over in Nantwich, we had some quiet, satisfying meditation this morning. We breakfasted at Nero's, and hit the road around 9.30 am. Much of the riding was nice quiet Cheshire countryside. Very enjoyable. However, by lunchtime a strong Northerly head wind got up and this made the rest of the ride a real slog. 

However, we did ride many miles of the Trans Pennine Pathway, which was beautiful and followed several rivers into the Industrial North. Battling the headwind through the heavy traffic of the Warrington to Wigan road was very tough, and we were tired on arrival at The Charles Dickens guest house at 4.45pm. We had cycled 48.5 miles.

Dickens himself may not have liked this place. It's rather basic, but cheap. It is situated in a run-down part of Wigan. But it will easily meet our needs, and then tomorrow we head North to Morecambe and our first sight of the coast.

Day 1: Sandwich on the way to Nantwich

We are in Nantwich at the Crown Inn after a 41 mile first day. It was a brilliant start to our odyssey. After Shubhanaga kindly dropped us in Cheltenham, we had an excellent overnight stay with my son Barney, wife Clare and my little granddaughter, Hazel.

This morning, Barney drove us to the Shrewsbury Buddhist Centre for the starting line. He also made sandwiches for us to eat on the road. So many lovely Buddhists there at the SBC to see us off at their beautiful centre: Vajrapriya, Sanghajivini, Balajit et al. A choir was practising, and they threw the doors open and sang to us as we pedalled off, amid much waving and photographing. It was wonderful and I felt a lump in the throat.

We then pedalled 41 miles through rolling Shropshire & Cheshire countryside at a steady pace. But got slightly lost at one point, but then corrected ourselves. It felt good. Lots of quiet country lanes with few cars. The rain made a strong appearance, but we were not bothered. It was a case of 'Singing in the rain'! Better weather is forecast tomorrow.

A very good first day and bikes and our bodies seem to be working well.

If you wish to donate it is: https://gofund.me/d272b272b9b1

Thank you.



The Revolution will not be motorized

One of the most important days of my life, was when I learned to ride a bicycle. - Michael Palin

I am sat here on the night before we set off for Cheltenham. I am quietly excited.

Prajnakara arrived this afternoon, having cycled his Brompton folding bike and gear the 44 miles from his home in Stowmarket, Suffolk. It is so good to see him. He is staying here with me at Abbey House. When we finally get to John O'Groats, he will have cycled 44 miles further than me.

Tomorrow morning at 09.30, Shubhanaga generously drives us, our bikes and gear to my son and dughter-in-law's house in Cheltenham, where we stay overnight. I will then get to spend time building Lego towers with my granddaughter, Hazel, while evryone else chats. On Monday morning, my son Barney drives us to the starting line at the Shrewsbury Buddhist Centre, where the sangha will wave us off at 11am. The big pedal-off will be filmed and will no doubt end up on this blog. Watch this space!

This evening, Sukavi, Prajnakara and I went out for an excellent Mexican meal in Cambridge - to celebrate the start of the Big Ride. Sukavi generously gives his time (as an ex-Accountant) to keep an eye on all the finances for Triratna Kolkata. Thank you so much to all you generous donors out there. It makes a big difference.

Countdown to Ecstasy

Prajnakara and I are now counting the days down to Monday 23rd 11am at the Shrewsbury Buddhist Centre. We will be waved off by the Sangha, and many of you around the world will be following this blog. Thank you! 

It matters to us that we have your support - especially your good wishes and interest. What we are attempting is not at all easy, and if last year's ride is anything to go by, some bits will be physically TOUGH. Having said that, there are bound to be many days of joy and moments of Ecstasy.

I feel grateful that we are healthy enough to do it at our advanced ages..... It could well be one of the highlights of our lives.

Right now, the focus is on training. Personally, I'm cycling 20-25 miles of Cambridgeshire countryside most days of the week. I need to get my legs used to some serious endurance work.

Tomorrow I will do squats at the gym to build power and strength. I'm going to need it!

The Great Gig in the Sky

It really isn't very long before we set of now - only 10 days. Prajnakara and I spoke on Zoom this evening and happily nailed down every last little detail of our Big Ride. We can't wait.

No matter how exciting this ride is, we aim to always bear in mind our brothers and sisters in Kolkata and the kind of demanding lives they must live in that city. It is a privelege to have the health, money and opportunity to do this fund-raising ride.

The Long and Winding Road....

So many folk have been asking me what our exact route and itinerary will be from Shrewsbury Buddhist Centre to John O'Groats. So here it is. 650 miles of long and (sometimes) winding roads.

May: Sunday 22nd drive (with bikes) to Cheltenham (my son's house). Monday 23rd My son Barney drives us to Shrewsbury Buddhist Centre for 11am start of ride. Shrewsbury to Nantwich. Tuesday 24th Nantwich to Wigan. Wednesday 25th Wigan to Morecambe. Thursday 26th Morecambe to Rydal. Friday 27th Rydal to Carlisle. Saturday 28th Carlisle to Moffat. Sunday 29th Moffat to Livingston. Monday 30th Livingston to Perth. Tuesday 31st Perth to Pitlochry. 

June: Wednesday 1st Pitlochry to Newtonmore. Thursday 2nd Newtonmore to Inverness. Friday 3rd Inverness to Tain. Saturday 4th Tain to Altnaharra. Sunday 5th Altnaharra to Melvich. Monday 6th Melvich to John O'Groats. Tuesday 7th Take bikes to John O'Groats Bike Transport (to have them couriered home). Take taxi to Wick. Take local train to Inverness. Catch 20.00 overnight sleeper train Caledonia Express to London Euston. Wednesday 8th Arrive in London Euston at 07.50. Take train back to Stowmarket (for Prajnakara) and Cambridge (for Saddharaja).

Let's hope all goes to plan. I expect we will want a long rest after all that!

Point North and pedal

 

650 miles is a long way! But I have already done the hardest part last year of the 420 miles from Lands End to near Shrewsbury. Youtube is full of inspiring rides by Lejogers of all ages. LEJOG = Lands End to John O'Groats.

Almost all riders say that the unrelenting steep hills and tiny roads of Cornwall and Devon are a unique challenge. But that was completed last summer, so hopefully..... this year's ride from Shrewsbury Buddhist Centre to John O'Groats should be a little easier and more enjoyable. Especially as I have the excellent Prajnakara with me all the way. 

But just look at the size of Scotland. It's such a big land mass!

How Triratna Buddhism could help Kolkata people

Lake near Kalyani, North Kolkata.

 

Local sangha members in North Kolkata.

Saddharaja and Adityabodhi teaching in a hutment area in Pune, Maharashtra.

Meditation classes in Kolkata.  At the railway station: Nityasri is third from the left, and Nagamitra is fifth from the left.

Nagamitra leading walking meditation on a retreat in Kolkata.

Howrah Railway Sation, Kolkata

Kolkata is one of the poorer cities of the world, and very densely populated. There are 15 million people living there - all madly packed in. Deep poverty is all around and the pollution within the city is challenging. Why start a Triratna Buddhist Centre here? Why not go somewhere a bit easier? 

The reason we want to develop Triratna activities here is as follows:

1) Many Bengali people are deeply interested in the Dharma here. They want to immerse themselves in it, and they will value meditation, the Refuges and Precepts, and a way of developing themselves within what can be a tough life. I have met so many Bengali people who want to Go for Refuge - if the facilities and sangha are there.

2) Bhante Sangharakshita had a deep connection with Kolkata from his early days and was keen that a Triratna centre was established here. 

3) Actually, Kolkata is a deeply cultural city, with many beautiful and uplifting aspects: architecture, theatre, poetry, art, dance, cinema and literature. It is the home of Rabindranath Tagore and 'The Bengal Renaissance'. There are many cultural facilities to augment a Buddhist life here.

4) It might sound corny, but I did actually have an unexpected 'spiritual vision' whilst visiting an old grave yard in South Park Street, Kolkata in 2014. A vision of a Triratna Centre here in Kolkata. I hadn't expected it. I was just temporarily visiting Kolkata on my way to a pilgrimage, when this Big Idea flashed into my consciousness, and has remeained and grown there ever since. I really didn't expect that.

Since that time, so many Order Member friends have shared that vision too, and augmented it. Nagamitra and Nityasri (who current live in Nagpur and are intending to move to Kolkata), Adityabodhi in Pune and Maitridasa at Padmaloka - and many others, too numerous to mention. 

We all feel a Triratna Centre in North Kolkata is where we should establish things, and go from there. That work has started. It won't be easy, but it will be incredibly valuable to perhaps tens of thousands of women and men in the future.

That is why Prajnakara and I are about to undertake this fundraising ride. Watch this space.

Cycling in Kolkata and Cambridge

 

Kolkata is unbelievably busy and densely-populated. I have actually ridden a cycle in Kolkata, believe it or not. in 2019, a cycle rickshaw driver that I made friends with in Chowringhee (central Kolkata) allowed me to cycle his rickshaw like the ones above, providing that he could take a photo of me doing so on his mobile phone.

Rajiv was so happy with the photo he took of this British visitor madly trying to pilot his machine through a street in Kolkata, that he said he would show it to all his family and friends. Thankfully, it was a quiet side-street (a main street would have been crazily irresponsible). Even so, stall-holders and chai-wallahs came out to grin at me and some even clapped. 

I gave Rajiv 500 rupees for the privilege, and he looked very happy. "Do you know Michael Palin?" he asked me, as I gratefully drew to a halt. I had to admit that I didn't. "He is a most funny man!" he concluded. I agreed with him. 

This was yet another example of the wonderful interractions with strangers that one can have in India - and especially Kolkata, where people love to talk. In the hot evenings, one sees ordinary men and women just sitting and talking for sometimes hours on end in streets, gardens, cafes and by the Hoogly river. This form of conversation is called adda in West Bengal.

Though I am undertaking a serious fundraising challenge with cycling from Land's End to John O'Groats, it is actually an honour for me to do it. I want to help develop Buddhist activities in the city that are substantial and premanent, and that is a team effort. Our Kolkata team is making good progress with that. Nagamitra, Nityasri, Maitridasa and Adityabodhi are great Dharma teachers. I will also be teaching the Dharma in Kolkata over the coming years (with a translator). The money we raise, will make all that possible.

Though that is of great value in itself, I'm pleased to say that I also love Kolkata and it's people. I have been there five times now and have visited India twelve times. I feel very at home in the streets of Kolkata. However, when it comes to cycling, I think I am better off doing that in Cambridge - and the rest of the UK.