It is 10.30pm on Monday January 13th. We are on board the night train to Bhopal. Amazingly, the train has set off on time. A lot can happen on the way, of course, in terms of delays, but at least we are aboard and haven't found our booked sleeping berths occupied (which has happened before).
The berths are not a comfortable experience, and there is a poor, unhappy child crying next to me. The beds are tiny for someone my size.
But that is consistent with India, generally. If you are looking for comfort, style and efficiency, then this is not the country for you.
Astounding experiences, tons of personal kindness, fascinating culture and awesome landscapes and food - yes. India has all this in juggernaut loads.
'Juggernaut' is actually a word of Indian origin. It came over with the British Raj (occupation of India for 300 years). There were many other words, too: Khaki, cushy, doolally, veranda, bungalow, cash, catamaran, curry, cot, loot, thug, char, shampoo, avatar, jungle, dinghy, jodhpurs, dungarees, moghul, pyjamas, pukka, tickety-boo, typhoon, bangle, Blighty, gymkhana, bandana........I could go on and on!
Returning soldiers, merchants and administrators for the Raj returned to Britain (Blighty) with these words.
The journey was one of my worst in terms of Indian night trains. Very uncomfortable with bed area too small and with little padding. Not much sleep. Loud snoring. Not really a sleeper, more a 'lying awaker!' As we arrive in Bhopal, I badly need coffee.
We arrived at 06.30 and amazingly, it was on time.
At Bhopal station, we were hit by the cold. We are in Madhya Pradesh now and it is colder, though I think it will get up to 24C later. Out came the socks and jumper.
We were met by two friends and driven to our hotel, where we stay for three days. There will be an event later.
The day event was a joyous occasion and lasted from 11am to 3.30pm. However, it was actually cold indoors until we went outside in the afternoon sun for a late lunch.
After which, we went for a drive and walk in the countryside.
SN is due to arrive by train this evening at 8pm. He will then join us for the rest of the tour, which is great news.
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