Early work in Kolkata (Calcutta)

The writer Geoffrey Moorehouse wrote in his in-depth book Calcutta, "Very few people have ever said anything nice about Calcutta, unless they were Bengali". It is true, the place is often seen outside Bengal as the problem city of the world, with desperate poverty and all the problems that come with a city that has the most densely-populated urban areas anywhere in the world. 

Having spent a good chunk of time there, I know this is true. I've seen truly terrible sights in Kolkata that I've not seen anywhere else. But actually, that is only part of the story. It is actually, a wonderful city full of grand archetecture, beautiful green spaces, developed culture galore and incredibly friendly people who really love to talk. It's an ideal place to start a Triratna centre.

In February 2018, my Indian Order Member friend Adityabodhi and I decided to scout out Kolkata for a week. He would follow up Buddhist individuals and Buddhist organisations within the city, and I would volunteer in Mother Teresa's well-known hospice in Kalighat, to the south of the densely-packed city centre. 

I was working on an NHS Mental Health ward in Cambridge at the time, and already had nursing skills, so I could be useful at the hospice. Also, I wanted to overcome my fear and dread of Kolkata, and Nirmal Hriday (Mother Teresa's Home for the Sick and Dying Destitutes') as it is called, is said to be a very challenging experience. I could help out there, and I could ovecome my fear of challenges within Kolkata, I reasoned. Actually, it was an unforgettable experience - in a good way, and I woud be happy to do it again. That week, I did many 'early' shifts at the hospice while Adityabodhi explored Buddhism within the city. We met later each day and shared our experiences. 

I did a week's worth of shifts cleaning, de-lousing and feeding patients on the men's ward. I also prepared their bedding, washed and dried their clothes and carried out deceased patients after they had passed on. I did a lot of spoon-feeding at meal times. I also assisted an Italian surgeon in the surgery with a gangrene operation. There were men aged from 16 to 90, and - together with other volunteers - I cared for them all. Though I couldn't speak Bengali, I got some great rapport going with them. I was sad that most had only a short time to live. But it was better that they died in comfort and company than out on the streets. 

I also got to know many men and women volunteers from all parts of the world. Whilst most were in their 20s doing gap-year volunteering, I was by no means the oldest volunteer. I met a Frenchman, Pascal, who was 68 and had volunteered on the ward annually for 43 years! There was a very friendly atmosphere among the volunteers.

I had no difficulties volunteering in a Catholic Charity, and I could easily see the value of the hospice. There is much need for hospices in Kolkata, and perhaps one day, we can start a Triratna-run hospice. I also seem to have overcome any fear I have of Kolkata now, and can happily enjoy seeing all aspects of the city. I have since visited in 2019 and 2020. Once the pandemic is abated, I'll be back there again - engaging in Buddhist activities.